2005 - Paths Less Traveled Week 3 - The Great Basin, Wasatch and Skyline Drive |
| After this spring's bloated file, I've gone back to basics and split up the trip into the various weeks. Click each week for that part of the journey. | Last
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| Iowa, Nebraska, Wyoming | Friday, 30
Sep.
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| Northern Utah & the Great Basin | Wednesday,
21 Sep.
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| The Great Basin, West Wasatch and Skyline Drive | Tuesday,
27 Sep.
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| The East Wasatch | Wednesday,
5 Oct.
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| I Suppose We Have to Head Home | Friday, 7
Oct.
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Saturday
- A night run - almost.
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Oh my! Where to start? Perhaps with the end.....back to the 'bus' at 9:30 PM after starting at 7 AM. Filling a 16 gallon tank with 15.7 gallons of gas. 150+ miles in the alleged desert. Meeting some new people. Over 80 photos of the day's adventure. Had a great time wheelin' - and nothing broke! Perhaps some clarification is due. There are always innuendos buried within these ramblings. The latest is the use of the word "alleged" when referring to the desert. While it is true that to the west for many, many miles there are no towns, few paved road and thousands upon thousands of square miles with no services whatsoever, it certainly is not a barren desert. While there are large flats between mountains that some might call boring, even they are intruiging and full of life. But once one gets into one of the many mountains, it's an entirely different world. Trees, antelope, deer, wild mustangs, old mining camps, ghost towns, cliffs, and scenery that's some of the best on this trip so far. So while it's technically a desert, it's anything but boring and anything but barren. |
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So a little bit about our gracious "tour guides" Keith and Jerry. Keith is retired from Geneva Steel and has a truck/auto repair shop north of Delta. He and his wife, Jerry (you can only imagine the grief she took as a kid!) close the shop and go wheelin' each weekend. Keith is one of the founders of UROC and he and Jerry are an integral part of this professional rock crawling organization. They've built a couple of awesomely trail worthy vehicles and their driving (and spotting skills) are some of the best I've ever seen. So today they've invited us to go to Bird, aka Chainsaw, Canyon and then move along to Sawmill Canyon for some reasonably challenging trails. |
40 miles later, this is beginning of Bird (Chainsaw) canyon. This canyon's trail was very reminiscent of many of the more difficult trails used for the Dakota Challenge. Some of the side canyons are incredibly difficult and most likely impossible without a severely modified vehicle. |
The first "minor" obstacle. To set the record straight, there is absolutely no truth to the vicious rumor that I had to winch up two obstacles. I was concerned that I might need to use the winch later in the trail and I wanted to ensure that it was working properly. And, after the first test, a second test was in order to verify the integrity of the first test. Both tests passed. |
After negotiating some of the obstacles and watching Keith and Jerry climb them with little difficulty, this was a welcome respite. |
This is the vehicle they use for their UROC competition. Nice flex! |
After Chainsaw we moved down Marjum Canyon road to a side canyon for lunch. Turns out that Marjum Canyon road is old US Highway 6 and was also part of the Lincoln Highway until the designation was hijacked by the Wendover crew. The scenery was outstanding! |
This was the view from the lunch spot. Behind us is an old cabin that a hermit lived in for many years in the early part of the 1900s. |
| So after lunch we headed another 30 miles away to Sawmill Canyon. This was much easier. The scenery and make up of the canyon was as different as night and day from Chainsaw. On the way up we saw a number of wild Mustangs (horses, that is.) It was getting late in the day but we finally made it to the top. The first photo in this day's ramblings was taken at the top. The valley we came from is in the center top of the photos. At one time there was a steam engine up here to cut timbers. By the time we left and hit the valley below, the sun was beginning to set and we still had another 50 miles to go to get back to the motor home. | |
Dust was everywhere. Often times we stayed 1/2 mile back to avoid it. The wheeling and scenery here is awesome. This could be a second Moab. The only problem is that all the good wheeling is 40 - 60 miles from the nearest town. That's a helluva long way to walk when you break! This trip today was enlightening. I need to come back here with the 'real' tires and play on some of these trails. |
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| This was a good day. We stopped at their place on the way back and got a tour of his shop. Jerry had hundreds of photos of their 4 wheelin' escapades. By the time we left, it was after 9 but worth every single minute! Back to the coach, hungry, tired and thirsty. Tomorrow we'll leave a lot later! Oh yeah, Flori-duh had moved out and someone else elected to move in - again - many open spots, but right next to us. I must have a sign on the back of the motor home that says "park here." Time to move to the desert. | |
Sunday - Guess Who's Coming
to Dinner?
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Up and at 'em at 9. Met Keith and Jerry at their place and took off on a scenic drive today - and also a drive to look for rocks. The first stop, 40 miles away, was the back side of Topaz Mountain to find, what else, but Topaz crystals. There were thousands of the tiny crystals all over the ground. Today they took their Toy - also built very impressively with a full external cage and all four fenders removable - so it's street legal until it's time not to be street legal. Marvelous design! |
| Once again, the scenery was totally different than the previous day's. After picking up some Topaz and some black stuff (either Apache Tears or Obsidian) we descended the mountain. After getting down, wondering why the heck my tires were spinning a little on the very steep hills - up and down, I found that my hubs weren't locked in. Oops again. Actually it didn't do bad at all for 1-wheel drive! | ![]() |
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So we
stopped for lunch and picked up some beryllium. As we're eating, a tarantula
came rambling along, perhaps looking for lunch. A rather contrary fellow,
(I assume he was a he - I didn't look!) at one point he became somewhat
irritated with me taking photos and chased me around a little. It was hilarious.
(Well, at least I thought so!) These suckers
can move when they want to! After we were done playing, he was
encouraged to go down a hill and leave us alone as Connie was somewhat
concerned that he might elect to hitch a ride back to camp with us. While
I'm not a fan of spiders, tarantulas are pretty benign and are not terribly
poisonous. I'd rather meet one of these any day than a brown recluse or
a black widow! At least you can see these coming! |
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More rock collecting and then on the way back, stopped at Baker Hot Springs and watched attentively as a young couple emerged from the pool of hot water. Headed back "home," took a short nap and then took Keith and Jerry out for supper that evening as a thank-you for their hospitality. It was not easy finding an eating establishment open in Delta on Sunday! Obviously we had to stay at the campground again. Much to my aggravation, yet someone else was right next to us again. Damn! Time to move to the desert. |
But before moving on, had to get a photo of the fuel tank on Keith's rock crawler. Yes, it is a beer keg! Adolph Coors, to be specific. I find this a most excellent use of a Coors keg, much better than the originally intended contents. So as we leave - thanks Keith and Jerry for a wonderful time. We'll be back! |
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Monday
- The Loneliest Road
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| Monday, Monday. Some people need to go to work. Instead, it's high time to move into the desert. Enough crowding. Enough people camped next to us. Enough of this $20/night crap. Time to move west of Delta on Highway 50, also known at the "Loneliest Road in the United States." The next real town to the west is Ely, approximately 153.1 miles away. | |
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Picked up a 5 gallon gas can for extra fuel. More about that later. Watered up, sewered down. Bought some groceries. Still have real beer and some wine. All set now for a few days about as far away from civilization as one can get while "roughing it." This is nice. Found a pretty good graveled area off "The Loneliest Road" and just on the west end of dry Lake Sevier, a 30 mile long dry lake. Poked around for a high area that's on gravel - most of the ground is clay. Thunder boomers are predicted for tomorrow afternoon and the NWS is suggesting that the flash flood potential for Tuesday is "moderate" and Wednesday is "High." We're not that far off Highway 50, about 1/4 mile or less but that's OK. There's maybe one vehicle going by every 15-20 minutes. Beautiful view of the dry lake bed and the mountains on the other side. |
"The Loneliest Road" |
This was the trail to the shale beds where fossils were looking for fossils. |
After the shopping spree, driving west, scouting a site and getting set up, it was 2 PM before venturing out. Took a small trip today, only 50 miles round trip to Fossil Mountain to get some pretty impressive pieces of shale that contain thousands of shells, brachiopods and even a trilobite or two. It's pretty awe-inspring and puts you in your place when you chip out a chunk of earth and realize that you are the first person to see these fossils in 500 million years. There just aren't words to describe the feeling when you see something like this and realize that these things were here long before dinosaurs. Wow!! |
| This is typical of the dry lake beds that are often present in the flats. One approaches these very carefully as they can be a deep sticky clay when wet. It also has a hard crust but there may be spots (fortunately we didn't find them) where there's a hard crust on top but you drive on it and scrunch - you're screwed! Keith mentioned that in some cases, it's taken two or three days to extricate vehicles from these dry-on-top lake beds. | ![]() |
| Ah, back by 5 for a leisurely supper of brats and beer. It's HOT, over 90, so start the generator and the air - cooled down to 70 in about an hour or so. Filled the Jeep with gas from the moronic gas can purchased earlier. Now how, you may ask, can a gas can be moronic? Easily. It doesn't have a vent cap so the gas flows in very slowly. (Why would anyone design a gas can without a vent cap? Oh, I see, this was made in Oklahoma!) The filler tube had an apparatus on the end that prevented it from being inserted into the tank (until said apparatus was quickly dispatched.) The spout now fit, but leaked. The tank was formed such that the fuel didn't completely empty. Grr. I know the fate of this tank upon returning home! | |
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What a nice spot. The sun is going down and the mountains across the lake are a gorgeous red - with the brilliant white of the lake bed below them. It's nice and cool inside and the Blue Moon tastes very good tonight. Took a shower and feel great. I can hardly wait for the almost full moon to rise over the mountains across the lake. The only vehicle next to us is the Jeep. This is camping. |
Tuesday - DEET Eating
Flies
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Today was a day of hunting, again, for the elusive JAFR and other stuff. After bypassing a number of pretty good looking 4WD trails, we wound up at "U-Dig Fossils," a commercial operation that charges $20 per person for two hours of digging. Needless to say, we only paid $20. I was the driver. The photo to the left is the shale pile where one can easily obtain Trilobite fossils. They had these flies there that were a tremendous nuisance. After applying a liberal dose of DEET, it seemed to attract the damn things rather than repel them. I suspect these are rare "Deetus Eatus" variety of flies. |
| Trilobites are 500 million (plus or minus 1) year old sea creatures. That's about all I know. At any rate, they can easily be found in the shale beds at U-Dig. They're probably all over the place but at least here one can find them. | ![]() |
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Once the digging was done, the search was on for the next site. At one of the intersections in the desert, this derelict truck was discovered. Probably belonged to the last person who tried to find JAFRs in the desert. The route of the day that was chosen put us over 3 mountain ranges into Skunk Valley. By 2 PM the clouds were forming and pretty dark in distance so the trip was cut short. Good thing. |
| On the way back, stopped at Painter Springs. By this time the interest in JAFRs had diminished but it was a great, although very short, 4WD trail that became narrow (again) and very scenic. | ![]() |
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Here's the view of Tule valley from Painter Springs. The road off in the distance is about 15-20 miles long. So got back early, about 4 and really tired. The sun was hot, even with the clouds that were forming. 6 PM now and there are some storms coming up in the southwest. Might be an interesting night. The only vehicle next to us is the Jeep. This is camping. |
Wednesday - Desert to
Mountains
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As expected, thunderstorms and rain continued on and off through the night in the desert. There wasn't nearly as much rain as expected so they downgraded the flash flood potential. The lightning in the desert was pretty impressive, too bad it was 2 AM. By 8 the rain was done and there was clear sky to the west. After breakfast, headed back to Delta and spent a couple hours washing clothes. From there over to Nephi for fuel and lunch. Sprint's 3G worked there so uploaded a ton of random bits. By this time it was 3. Two full tanks of fuel, a full tank of LP, water, food, clean clothes......it's time for the second half of the trip....the mountains! |
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And heeere's Fountain Green. All the small towns in the Sanpete Valley were pretty nice. The roads in these towns are wide - this was by design as the early settlers wanted roads wide enough to turn a wagon around. It works for motor homes with a 70' turning radius as well. These wide streets, with nice looking homes and the fall mountains in the background are quite a change from the past week's scenery. Not that this is better, just that it's different. After all, all change is good. |
Heading down the valley towards the next camping spot, the Wasatch were putting on quite a show. While again, the camera didn't capture it, the hills were alive with brilliant reds and incredible yellows and golds. Fall colors are so very pretty. Too bad they're a harbinger of months of crappy snow (back home), salt (back home) and a messy, ugly end of winter (back home) before spring somes again. I'll bet it's not that crappy here! But for now - the sights, the smell of the pines, the fresh air, the puffies in the sky, the blue sky, the warm sun -- it overloads the senses. |
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Ended up in Palisades State Park, east of Manti. This is in the midst of what is becoming an expensive residential area, even though it's miles away from the nearest large town. Spent the next hour cleaning the sticky desert mud off the side of the motor home. I've had super glue that didn't stick as well as this stuff. What a mess - but worth every minute of it! So this is a photo of the sunset over the lake. In the distance are more mountains. This is a nice place, but unfortunately civilization is rapidly encroaching. |
So the last vestige of sunlight lit up a hill with an almost fluorescent red glow. This shot was taken from a side window of the motor home, and the previous shot was taken from the front only a few minutes earlier. Just to the right of center there's a red A-frame of a magnificent house halfway up the hill. Damn civilization! So today ended easily. Some periodic maintenance and a nice drive. A little satellite TV, a little computer stuff. Electricity and water. Gotta say it again - I love roughing it! Tomorrow - the Wasatch! |
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Thursday - Skyline Drive,
Part 1
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| For 20 years we've (I've) wanted to drive all of Skyline Drive, one of the longest and highest contiguous roads in the US. There are no plans for this trip, but if there were, the plans would be to split this drive up into three or four sections, one per day, to allow one to take a leisurely trip and make the most of the incredible fall colors. | "One of Utah's most remarkable drives, Skyline Drive follows the summit of the Wasatch Plateau, which divides the Great Basin from the Colorado Plateau. This scenic back road, nearly all of which is unpaved, extends 150 miles between US 6 in the north and I-70 in the south. Few people travel the entire length. Much of the drive lies above 10,000 feet in vast meadows and alpine forests......There is an abundance of wildlife along the drive. You can watch eagles soar overhead and deer bound through the trees on either side. In the autumn, the hills come alive with vibrant reds, yellows and golds, all contrasted against the various shades of green." |
So happy autumnal equinox. This section of the Drive was, in a word, spectacular! What a way to enjoy the first day of autumn! Going north to south, this would normally be the last section of the Drive, probably about 1/4 of the total mileage. Tomorrow will attempt to do the middle half with the northern quarter Saturday. So the day broke bright and sunny. Headed up to the Drive from Six Mile Canyon, a road right off the campground. Six Mile, contrary to its name, is not six miles but about 13 instead. Go figure. It's a moderate 4WD road but only needed low range and no 4WD. It took 2 hours to do the 13 miles but worth it. At about 10,000 feet Six Mile joined up with Skyline Drive. |
Not quite to Skyline yet but this will give an idea of the brilliant
colors along the way. |
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Once at the top, the road improved to a two lane gravel road for a while. It later changed to a single lane dirt road before once again regaining two lane status a few miles before it joined I-70. |
| Autumn colors were everywhere. Canyons were filled with reds, yellows, greens and gold. This idyllic scene was at one of the turnoffs. Not evident is the fence in the foreground made of logs, crisscrossed as shown below. This fence went on for miles and miles. Someone spent a heck of a lot of time and energy. | ![]() |
This part of the Drive is on a ridge. Canyons are on both sides - both filled with incredible colors. |
See what I mean? |
So hours later, made the descent from 10,000 feet. The Drive ended at I-70 but there was yet another gravel road that paralled I-70 the 16 miles back to Salina where one needed to then pick up US 89 to get back to Manti and the camp. But on the way, there were a few surprises driving along the narrow canyon road at 20 mph with the I-70 traffic whizzing by sometimes only a couple hundred yards away. |
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I was not allowed to take the "Troubled Bridge Over Water." Looked like fun, though. |
One of the many surprises on the way back. |
Got back early, about 4. "Toured" Manti in about 5 minutes. Made it back to camp and spent a leisurely evening reading, watching a little TV and another beautiful sunset. |
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Friday - Skyline Drive,
Part 2
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"A bad day in the mountains beats a good day at work." Today will be cloudy most of the day. Kalifornia seems to be shipping Utah a bunch of clouds but no storms. This drive was rich in color but much of the enjoyment was lost to the clouds as well as the beginning of the trip. This will be the middle half of Skyline. After talking with a very nice ranger at Ephriam, it was decided to make the ascent to the Drive from Mt. Pleasant. I thought the ascent road was very nice. While the road has the easiest rating for 4WD, I only used low range in 2WD. Mountain after mountain was alive with the fall colors. |
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Along the ascent route, there were a couple of tiny power houses with small generators. It didn't even appear that Pleasant Creek had enough water to generate electricity, but apparently so. The water was brought down hundreds of feet via a metal pipe, maybe a foot in diameter. That fed the turbine for the generators. These generators looks like they're from the 30s or 40s, if that recent. Not sure how much power they provide, but it's probably not a whole lot. Pretty interesting to see these antique power houses still working, though. Their method of cooling the power houses was, if nothing else, ingenious.
In several of the windows covered with metal mesh, they had common
20" plastic house fans in the windows circulating the air. I'm
assuming the power lines attached to the building were to ship power
out, and not to provide power for the fans. |
| Once at the top, about 10,000', Skyline Drive was pretty rutted and, in more than one place, had some mud holes. There was a good base and once again, never used 4WD getting through these "little" mud holes. Also once at the top, the first 15 miles were not as scenic as expected. Not my fault. On the way up, and at the top, we did encounter some nifty western kind of scenes. The first were the sheep that were being herded together by the dogs and the herders. It looks like they were bringing them down from the top of the mountain for the winter. It was a kick to watch the dogs do their thing. | |
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| This photo isn't too clear, it was taken some distance away to avoid frightening the cows and the horse (though my exceedingly noisy brakes announced our presence.) On this stretch of the road there were some cowboys (or is it cowpersons, these days?) that were herding cattle along the road, again bringing them down the mountains for the winter months. Another western scene. |
Dodging the "brown rocks" that were deposited in the middle of the road quickly became an entertaining sport. |
Need more be said? |
The views were awesome. More than a mile below is the Sanpete valley. The darker mountains in the distance are over 60 miles away, almost to Delta. |
Towards the end of the day's drive, the sun poked through and as we descended via 12 Mile Canyon (which is 18 miles long) the hills once again came alive with probably the most color seen so far. Shot a couple rolls of 35mm slides which ought to capture the color a lot better than these photos. |
Part of 12 Mile Canyon and the road. |
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So getting back to the camp at Manti, decided to pack up and move 20 miles north to Mt. Pleasant and go to one of the few remaining drive-in theaters in Utah. The Brothers Grimm was playing and was a so-so movie. I personally thought the best part of the movie was the French-bashing that occurred periodically. The weather was delightful. The clouds cleared and it remained warm enough with the top down. A gentle breeze kept the bugs away. Now and then one could see flashes of lightning way, way to the north. The Polygamy Porter ("Why have just one?") went great with the popcorn. Not a bad way to end week 3. |
Next, the final section
of Skyline Drive and Week 4, here.
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| Created 16 Sep 2005. Last Modified: |
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