Moab etc.- Part Deux - 2006

Part 4 - Monument Valley, some Arizona and home :(

Index of this bloated blog
Last Upload
Part 1
Getting Ready and Getting There
Sunday, 01 Oct.
Part 2
More Moab
Sunday, 01 Oct.
Part 3
Hanksville and Torrey
Sunday, 08 Oct.
Part 4
Monument Valley, some Arizona and home :(       - This page

Sunday, 22 Oct.

Complete with the recovered photos from Friday the 13th. No more triskaidekaphobia.


Monday - Somewhere in Arizona, or maybe Utah
Good morning! The sun is shining ..... somewhere ..... but not here! The rain is coming in over the mountain and we need to load up the FN JP, batten down the hatches and wander down to Monument Valley, where they are also predicting T-storms. SR 24 was open and in good shape except for the many places where debris had washed over the road. It had rained again this morning and there was a lot of clay that had washed over the highway. What a mess, I can image what the FN JP and RV look like. Snapped lots of photos, but these are just a sample of what we saw on the way to Hanksville.

Part of SR24 that was washed out by the Fremont. One lane - CLAY! Yuch - and slippery, too.

Hanksville. This was a 5' wash until a diversion dam broke and it created a 30' deep gorge right through town. It appears as if the town is built on sand so it doesn't take much.

Our campground in Hanksville a few days earlier.

The same campground a couple days after the flood. The beige stuff is a slick, gummy clay that's about 8" deep. Oh my! There were a LOT of deep tracks where people attempted to get out.

Next stop was Lake Powell, at Hite. The Lake is slowly filling again but still 100-150' low. Nothing to report there except the 3 bikers who asked if I had any gasoline to sell. "Nope," was my reply, "but turn right, head across the bridge and there's gas available at Hite Marina less than 2 miles away." They nodded, drove off and proceeded to turn left, 50 miles to Hanksville. Huh??? Fuel and instructions seem to be a problem around here. See Dave and Doc's Adventure here with a description of some inane tourists who also had a fuel problems - amongst others!

From Hite, took a scenic Hwy 95 in between rain showers to Blanding and then from Blanding down to Bluff, Ut. While the goal was to get to Monument Valley, Bluff looked intriguing so pulled in to Cadillac Ranch RV for the night (no, not that Cadillac Ranch, sadly.) Hosed down the motorhome and the FN JP just so we could find them underneath the now dried clay and proceeded to head west, towards Valley of the Gods. (Yeah, everything seems to have a goofy name out here.) This got interesting as there were many T-storms forming all over the place. Got many, many photos of the buttes and spires during this 17 mile dirt road drive with awesome storms as the backdrop. These are two - and not the best but can't decide what to put here so will pick a couple at random. Too bad.


This place has been dubbed a mini-Monument Valley.

Many spires and buttes. What doesn't show well is how dark the sky is behind this spire.

No words.
After admiring the unbelievable scenery on this great 17 mile drive, arrived at the Moki Dugway, a 3 mile gravel road, dug into the side of a cliff, that ascends (and surprisingly enough descends from the opposite end) 1100 feet. Climbed to the top and viewed one helluva storm forming. Drove around on top for while then decided to head down as the storm started to move in our direction. This is an awesome drive - absolutely awesome!

A view of the valley from only the half way point.

This is less than 1/4 of the dugway.
Got down from the dugway just in time. The storm strengthened and engulfed the dugway and cliff above. Sat and watched the storm and the lightning for some time. Yeah, not only a geek, I also love to watch storms like this. The sky was MUCH darker than these photos show.
Next was a 9 mile drive to the Goosenecks of the San Juan River. The thunder was rolling, the rain was coming in from the west. This was the highest point around so didn't dilly dally. Grabbed a few photos and got the hell out of there. I tried to splice a couple photos together to give a panoramic view, but need Jeff with his expertise (and patience) to do that. Still, this gives some idea of the spectacle. The San Juan River runs 5 miles in a 1 mile segment. There's primitive camping up here at the end of a 4 mile paved road - this is definitely on the camping list!

On the 24 miles back to Bluff, came upon a modest rockslide. Bet that made a thump.

Got back by 6, ate out at a steakhouse - steak was OK, prices were a little high but they did have Polygamy Porter (Why have just one?)

Got back to the coach, and turned on the 'puter to document today and much to my amazement, found there was an unsecured internet connection. Well, we can't pass up this surprising opportunity, now can we? Of course, the first web site is to check the weather and got this.....here we go again! (This was the storm in the photos, and yes, Bluff is in San Juan county.)

At 524 PM MDT... National Weather Service Doppler radar indicated very heavy rain from thunderstorms along a line extending from 24 miles southeast of Canyonlands National Park to Mexican Hat... or along a line extending from 21 miles south of Moab to Mexican Hat... moving northeast at 15 mph. These storms have continued to redevelop over western San Juan County which has heightened the threat of flooding.

* Other locations in the warning include but are not limited to Bluff ... Aneth and Eastland

Excessive runoff from heavy rainfall will cause flooding of slot canyons... small creeks... washes and arroyos. Move to higher ground now! Flooding will occur rapidly.

10:30 PM. I may regret saying this but I suspect this was much ado about nothing. The storms have moved off and we have not been washed into the San Juan River (yet.) Again, a day that was started with low expectations turned out to be marvelous, simply marvelous! Tomorrow will be Monument Valley (really) and Goulding's trading post. Will pay homage to John Ford and John Wayne.

Tuesday - Monument Valley, A mixed bag
Not having floated away in a flash flood, it was time to move along. But.....a quick check of the state of the RV showed a modest problem with the battery charger. The "trickle charge" (nominally 1-2 amps) was 97 amps. That's a helluva trickle! Inspection of the batteries indicated that indeed they were being hammered with a heck of a charge - bubbling and very hot. They were not happy. After an hour or so of checking the charger and the microprocessor controller, it seems that the charger has decided to operate full tilt independent of any alleged control. Will wait until home and then get a schematic and see what's up. In the meantime, will turn the charger on and off manually. No big deal. On to Monument Valley and Canyon de Chelly, both of which are on Navajo Indian land.

On the way, went through Mexican Hat and crossed the very muddy, flooding San Juan River.

It had been preordained that we were to stop at Goulding's Campground (a private enclave within the Navajo Nation's land) where there is cable TV and electricity rather than the Navajo Tribal park which has only primitive camping. The lady at Goulding's Campground registration desk was appalled that I had no reservations since this is their "busy" time. I guess I could have quipped something about reservations on the Reservation but I was rather reserved and registered my reservations about having reservations while on a relaxing retreat. She was not impressed. Neither was I when I found out the frickin' campsite was almost $40 a night. "Why don't you stick a gun in my face and ask for my wallet?" I quipped. She was not impressed. I sadly gave her my credit card and decided to get over it. Then she started her spiel about all the crap there is to do here. When she got to the tours ($50 per person for a 3 hour guided tour of Monument Valley) I told her we had a Jeep and didn't need to hear about them. She wouldn't shut up. I was not impressed. After the fourth request, I told her I didn't give a shit about their damn tours and she finally shut the hell up. Now, the coup de grâce. "Do you have wifi here?" "Yes we do, and it's only $3 per day." I threw up my hands, grabbed the paper work and headed for the door. But she got the last word as I was walking away, "Shall I sign you up?"

It's now 8:30 PM, oh, I'm sorry, we're 100 feet in Arizona, it's 7:30 PM and the campground is less than half full. So much for the damned reservations that were allegedly needed!

Back to today - the views were great. The lunch, at Goulding's Dining room sucked, I STILL have gas from that! An obligatory trip to a number of gift shops and Indian jewelry shops followed. It's amazing the shit people try to sell and it's even more incredible the shit people buy.

So finally got to go tour "Monument Valley." The entire Valley is within the Navajo reservation and they have designated a drive through a scenic part of the Valley. Paid the $10 and completed the advertised 17 mile drive in 8 miles. Oh well, maybe it was kilometers. Scenery: spectacular! Ah, but did I mention the tens of busloads of people that were there? This place is tourist city. Great scenery, but too many damn tourists! Crowds are not my cup 'o tea.


The classic shot of Monument Valley - well one of them, anyway.

Yet another.

And another.

And an "artsy shot."
After the return from the drive, there was an obligatory stop at the gift shop/Tribal museum. For me, there were several highlights, the first being the entertaining sign on the front of the building.
Being one who prefers museums to gift shops, I wandered into their exhibit of the Navajo Code Talkers during WWII. It was a great exhibit. There were photos of some of the Code Talkers with quotes from them. This one caught my eye.
After that, back to the less than full campground for supper and a relaxing evening. Tomorrow may be Canyon de Chelly.
Wednesday - If you've seen one Canyon de Chelly . . . . . .

Up early for a sunrise drive - well, almost sunrise. With all the rain, the humidity is still high and there was quite a haze in the air so bagged the rest of the drive, hopped in the RV, left the delightful Goulding campground, the tourist busses, and drove the 120 miles to Chinle and Canyon de Chelly. The scenery was pretty until we came near towns, like Many Farms and Chinle. More about that later. After lunch, took a drive on the upper South rim of Canyon de Chelly. This 17 mile road is a BIA (Bureau of Indian Affairs) public highway. The Canyon floor, however, is not open to the public for free. However, for a mere $75 they would allow us to drive the FN JP on the Canyon floor for 3 hours. Or, for a mere $150, we could sit in a Unimog with 30 other people and tour the canyon. It looked just fine from the top!

However, on the rim drive, at each of the designated view points, Navajo were there selling their wares. Granted, they need to make a living but it did get a but old and annoying after a while - for many reasons! Not to discriminate against Canyon de Chelly, but after all the magnificent scenery, the lack of people, and the lack of tour buses on most of this trip, we were not totally impressed. I guess if you've seen one Canyon de Chelly, you've seen 'em all.

So, with 10 (plus or minus) days left, where next? The vote seems to be go to Holbrook, AZ, look for more JAFRs at nearby Joseph City and then take some back roads through Arizona and New Mexico on a slow trip home. Requests have been made for Roswell so that will dictate some of the route. On the other hand, that's not all bad as it looks like there are some pretty cool 4WD trails on the road to Roswell. I need my off-road fix :)


Canyon de Chelly - I

Canyon de Chelly - II

Canyon de Chelly - III

Many Anasazi cliff dwellings dot the Canyon

Dave's Discourse on the Last Two Days

If it sounds like the last two days haven't been as exciting as the previous days - Bingo! You are correct! First, there are too many tourists. Busloads of them. Secondly, the Native Americans have wisely chosen to capitalize on the tourists and prices are exceedingly high. Thirdly, and the biggest detraction of this area, is the incredible amount of litter. Broken beer bottles, tires, plastic, cardboard boxes, and other shit scattered all over the sides of the roads - even in the remotes areas. What a shame! People complain about the off-road community destroying the landscape. Where the hell is the Sierra Club or SUWA when it comes to cleaning up the years of abuse on these Indian managed lands? Sigh, no sense in pontificating.

Well...maybe! Graffiti! There's more graffiti here than in Chicago. To me, graffiti tells me a LOT about the people and the issues that may plague them. While used to some of it watching freight trains roll by, I was appalled, absolutely appalled at the amount of graffiti. Again, let the "gang green" folks come out here and help eradicate some of this.

I'll be back - still love this country but sadly will stay away from the lands owned by the Indians and managed by the BIA.

Thursday - Goodbye Chinle, Hello Holbrook

So why Holbrook? We need propane - almost out. We need diesel fuel. Almost out. I need beer. Almost out. We need more JAFRs. So why not Holbrook? So Holbrook it is! Took a delightful drive on a peaceful, albeit rough BIA road from Chinle to Holbrook (look it up on a map.) Found a nice commercial campground on the west end of town. Wide spaces and all the amenities of life except wireless, which is available up at the registration office. It's now 8 PM, ooops, sorry, this is Arizona, 7 PM and trying to finish today's twaddle so I can attempt to walk all the way up there and upload after more more than a couple beers. It's tough enough just to type this - I can only imagine the horrors of trying to upload this later after a few more beers. And don't even think about email!

On the way here, we had to stop at the Hubble Trading Post (a national hysterical site) somewhere on the way to Holbrook (look it up on a map!) This quickly turned into a cluster as (1) Could not easily make the turn to get in via the access road off the highway - yes, there's a drinkin' story here! (2) Once in, I could not turn around easily - a helluva small parking lot. (3) Once turned around (without jamming the trailer into the RV again) parked in the ONLY spot I could fit in. (4) Was accosted by a Park Service person in a uniform who told me I could not park there because of the "No Parking" signs that made no sense and that I was to to park in an area that was f*****g impossible for us to even think about fitting. This whole episode reminded me a whole lot of Alice's Restaurant (or as they call them out here, resturant.) Instead of supporting the local economy (again), we exited, stage left. Another memorable day on the Navajo Reservation.

So Holbrook, thus far, has been marvelously enjoyable. This is more my speed. No tourists, to speak of. In the 1800s Holbrook was described as "a town to tough for women and children." It was one of the wildest western towns with "cowboys galloping through town on payday with guns blazing." Such exotically named saloons such as Bucket of Blood were scattered all over town. I like it! And besides that, it's Route 66 heaven! Schlocky, but cool - very, very cool!

Got propane. Got fuel. Got beer. Toured Holbrook.


Lunch was here - one of the oldest Route 66 eateries in Holbrook. The food was outstanding, the waitress rude. One could not ask for more from such an American icon. Love it!

The infamous WigWam Motel. Yes, these are motel rooms in air conditioned concrete teepees. Route 66 at its best! Love it!

Next was a delightful trip through the Petrified Forest 20 miles out of town and then the Painted Desert. These are National Park Service sites hence no JAFR collecting is allowed. However, there are ample places to purchase kitschy gifts and petrified wood all over the place. For example, a 3' round, 4' high polished chunk of petrified wood was marked at $14,000 at one of the "museum" gift shops. Needless to say, one was not purchased.


Got wood? Petrified that is.

The painted desert was also cool. Got there at 5 PM, just as the sun was at the right angle to really enhance the beauty.


A perfect end to a great day (except for Hubble - and not the telescope.)

So the day ended with burgers on the grill and beer in my tummy. Graham called to inform me what a wonderful time he was having back home in the snow. His advice, "Don't come back." Sounds good to me.

So tomorrow will be the hunt for JAFRs near Joseph City. From there, head into the White Mountains (which from the current weather forecast, may indeed be white!) Time will tell. This is a nice vacation thus far except for a few issues. I don't give a shit (or two shits) if I ever come back.

PS. Was it mentioned I "maintained" the overcharged batteries? Over a gallon of distilled water was needed to top them off! At least the water level wasn't below any of the plates. Even so, this is still better than the woman while at the Chinle campground whose generator took a crap - but that's yet another drinkin' story. Jeez, I have a lot of drinkin' stories. This is going to be a good winter!

Friday the 13th - A Day of Contrasts
Today was indeed a day of contrasts – desert solitude in the morning, traffic at mid-day, mountains at late afternoon and a dead laptop at 8 PM.

While updating today's activities, the Hewlett-Packard laptop took a crap right in the middle of my usual drivel. It reboots continually. Being Friday the 13th, the first thought was that there might be a virus in there so tried to reload the OS from scratch via a CD ROM and that failed also. Without access to the internet, I can’t decode the Blue Screen of Death’s error, but after a while another diagnostic worked and it pointed to a bad interrupt from the Ethernet interface. Hardware failure. Damn. That’s enough to piss off Dave.

Being lazy sometimes is a good thing. When the HP laptop replaced the desktop in the RV, I never removed the tower. Well, maybe this one will work. Let’s see – need a keyboard, no problem. Need a hardwire mouse, found one in the laptop bag. The power cord was even here. Plug in the monitor, power up and …… amazing – the damn thing boots. (Of course it shuts down randomly so jiggling the CPU, boards, power supply, lubing the fans, etc., seems to have fixed that "minor" annoyance.)

So here I is. Hopefully the laptop’s hard disk is OK. The last backup was about a week ago. A lot of great photos will be lost if the disk is also gone. Sigh! One more thing to fix on returning home :( This has been a tough trip for electronics: the RV charger/inverter (or maybe the microprocessor controller) and now the laptop. Maybe it’s the altitude and the gamma rays are more intense…………

Thank goodness I updated the web yesterday so if either Sprint or wireless will work on this tower, the page can be downloaded and it can be updated again – sans today’s 7 photos.

Enough whining. Time to recover a little what was written today: The weather, despite the dire forecast for today, was perfect. In the morning went out to hunt more JAFRs. The trip to Joseph City on the back roads was great. Highlights were: (1) A cool bridge. (2) Some great Route 66 art. (3) The lonesome wail of the Santa Fe trains about 3 miles away. (4) The delightful repose while on a hill away from the hustle and bustle while admiring the JAFRs.


(1) - Cool Bridge

(2) - Route 66 Art
Photo 3 - Sorry, I have no photo of the lonesome wail

(4) - The delightful repose

After returning to the RV, packed up and drove to Show Low. What a bummer. From Show Low east on Hwy 260 for about 20 miles, there was nothing but traffic, construction, condos, traffic, realtor offices, traffic…..well you get the idea. Much too commercialized. I suspect this is where Phoenicians go to play in the winter and get away from the heat of the city in the summer. Keep on truckin’.

We finally got to the border of the Apache Indian Reservation and that solved the problem – well, except for the traffic jam at the Casino. But once past that, it was clear sailing driving through pristine forests at 9000 feet. What a difference 4000 feet makes.

I wanted to stop up here for the night and enjoy the forest, since it was still early, about 3 PM. We turned on to a road toward Sunrise Lake at the edge of the Reservation. The DeLorme assured us there would be a campground there. Signs were in place proclaiming that the road was closed 6 miles ahead but we/I were/was determined to find this campground at 9200’. With 2 miles to go, there was a little gas station/grocery store (that closes at 5 PM) and the terse lady there indicated there was a campground a mile down the road. One mile. No campground. Two miles, end of the road. But wait! There’s an incredibly large asphalt parking lot at the end that’s big enough to hold dozens of motor homes. Why not park there? The previous resident was packing up his 5th wheel and leaving. He indicated this was a good place. So set up camp, 6 miles in, at the end of a dead end road, surrounded by gently rolling hills at 9200 feet. This will be great – no traffic. Peaceful, quiet, secluded.

Took a couple hour drive in the forest. Very nice. Got back in time for a little rain shower and a beautiful rainbow. Never did find the alleged campground.


The forest primeval


The camp site

Photo 7 - Nifty rainbow

Holy crap, Batman! Since returning, there must have been 20 – 30 cars coming in, turning around, and leaving. Either they can’t read or they just liked the scenery. Also later this evening, there was a herd of elk that came out and that attracted a number of cars also. All in all, this place is very strange - but it’s good though!

At any rate, once the elk gawkers left, we’re now the only ones here for probably 5 miles. This is nice. Went outside and the breeze is gently blowing, the sky cleared, millions of stars are out, and counted 3 shooting stars while listening to the coyotes serenade in the background. Other than the laptop pissing me off, this is a very nice place. VERY NICE!!!

Until the photos are retrieved off the laptop (hopefully in a couple weeks), there'll be no photos for today, just these crappy placeholders so I won't forget what was to go there. Sorry about that (but not as sorry as I am!)

Saturday - Almost Socorro

What a difference a day makes. Wind picked up to about 30 mph about 4 AM. By coffee and sweet roll time at 8, the sky was dark and it was raining. It’s now 9, ahead of us it’s blue sky; to the south it’s very, very dark. And yes, I do have a photo of the dark clouds - but not here! T-storms are predicted for today with snow tonight. We'll be moving to Socorro anyhow today and perhaps I can upload some of this.

Or not. Motored 150 miles on down the highway and came to the little town of Magdalena, about 30 miles outside Socorro. There are some old roads here and a couple of places where the books indicate an abundance of JAFRs so pulled in to this little run down, out of the way, dilapidated campground with 3 other patrons – all permanent it seems. The campsite is out in the open with a view of the mountains in one direction and the plains in another. Quite nice. In fact, very nice.


Typical of the 150 miles from the White Mountains to Magdalena. It really wasn't that monotonous - the heavy traffic kept me alert!

ET phone home.The VLA array on the Plains of San Augustin are always a treat.
So after the stops at the shops (and there ain’t many in town!) headed 20 miles north to the ghost town of Riley. The trip was nice. There was not much left of the town except the church but sadly no JAFRs worth keeping were found. All during this time the sun was in and out, but off to the west were a magnificent set of damn dark clouds. They stayed there the whole day. Yes!

This Cholla was in full bloom. One must take time to stop and smell the cacti ....... carefully!

Riley.

Back to town. This time head 5 miles south to the Kelly Mine. This place charges people $10 a head to enter and one can then abscond with 10 lbs of JAFRs. Sadly no one was there to take our money so we had to leave. But once again, the journey was great.

5 PM. Too early to retire to the RV so hustle 10 miles east to Water Canyon. There’s supposed to be a great mine here where one can collect JAFRs to one’s content. The good news is that one must travel 2 miles up the creek. This would have been an awesome trail. It even required 4WD! Wow! I almost forgot where the T-case lever was! But unfortunately, a series of events occurred that forced us to turn around. (none of which were a mechanical failure.)


On the way to the canyon, there is this incredible road nestled between two bluffs. Right in the midst was this working windmill, Aeromotor no less.

The road. This is USFS 39. "I shall return."

Got back to town about 7PM. Not only does this town roll up the sidewalks, they also roll up the streetlights (at noon, none the less!) Pretty sad. At one time this was a booming town. Now there are a few, very few businesses and many more derelict buildings. It’s yet another decaying town. Makes me sad.

Trudged the one mile out of town to the also derelict campground (but it’s good, though), had supper, a few beers, watched some lightning in the distance, planned the morro's trips and called it a night. Well, almost.

Tried the laptop again. Still kaput. This is major bullshit. So much for Hewlett Packard and their alleged good hardware! ARG!

With any luck, we'll be camping near I-25 tomorrow and perhaps Sprint might work and I might be able to get some of this uploaded. Time will tell. If not, the next day will be El Malpais (Valley of Fires) near Carrizozo (again no Sprint nor wifi but they have pistachios.) Tuesday may be Roswell. The UFO museum has an open wifi network, I suppose for any intergalactic travelers who cannot find a wifi connection between here and Mars.

Sunday - Socorro and a new meaning to the word "Cloudburst"

8 PM. After a visit to the Socorro Springs Brewing Company and having a few (or more) Heynekamp Dutch Lagers and a pizza, I have been stereotyped as drunk. So what? I don't frickin' care! (By the way, this whole episode tonight will be a great topic for discussion this winter.........sometime.) This has been a strange day in more ways than one, but damn, this campground has unsecured wifi. For the geek in you, trying to recover from the laptop failure and convert everything to the "backup computer" (which is 9 months out of date), I was able to download the web site for Week4 from millenicom. Then added the Word writings of the last few days and upload - as a result have only lost the photos for Friday the 13th. To make matters more confusing, WS FTP doesn't work for my millenicom login. I've been fighting that for a week or so. Tonight, in a moment of inspiration, used the CMD version of FTP and it worked. Well hell! WSFTP must be screwed. Surprise. Downloaded CuteFTP and it works like a damn champ. Screw Ipswitch (along with Hewlett-Packard!)

Geek off. Now to the good stuff.

Today was to be a day of wandering the back roads around Socorro and looking for more JAFRs. Pulled into a nice RV park on the south end of town about 9:30 AM. The Sunday morning sun is shining brightly and it looks like a marvelous day - except for the dark, I mean really dark, cloud to the south. Since this is near an interstate, figured Sprint might work and I could use that to upload all this shit. To my amazement, there's an unsecured wifi network here. Go to Wunderground, look at the radar and there's this little, tiny, bright red cell to the south. Gee, it's coming right up I-25 toward Socorro. Big deal. It's a small blip. Well, based on my years of vast experience with such storms and my reluctance to not "live on the edge" (ha ha), wisely elected to NOT go into the arroyos and look for JAFRs but to cruise the main drag for a little while.

Jeezus H! Got to the north end of town and it didn't look good at all to the south - like is wasn't there! Elected to go to back to the south end of town and the RV park, about 3 miles. First the baseball size raindrops hit. Then the hail. Then the cloudburst - really! I have never in my life, ever, ever, seen it rain so hard. Visibility was less than a car's length. By the time we got half way to the RV park, the water in the streets was over a foot or more high. It was running down from the hills west of town, over the highway, and depositing boulders in the middle of the highway. This was frickin' awesome! Wow!

After avoiding all the stopped/stalled cars and plowing through the now 18 - 24" of water on the main drag, got back to the RV where the cloudburst has created a new wash through the middle of the gravel based campground. Very cool (of course than can be said since we parked on one of the high spots!) The RV is OK so after waiting a couple minutes, the cloudburst passed, the sun came out and we drove back down to see the carnage. There was, of course, massive amounts of water (shades of Hanksville!) In an effort to see where the runoff went down the side of the town, built on a hill, wound up on a 4WD road east of town and there was close to 6" of hail there. That just missed us. Drove around, admiring Mother Nature's fury for a couple hours. Now if this would happen back home, there would be panic in the streets. Public safety officials would be out in force "protecting" us. Here? NADA. Yeah, it's a heavy rain and quite unusual, but so???? Love it! Love this country and love the relaxed attitude of the people who live here! But, must admit, have never seen anything like this before in my life!


"Clouds"


Camp David


A River Runs Through It - the campground, that is.


The beginning (or end) of the main drag, 20 minutes after the storm.

Two feet of water.

Hammering through the water with it splashing. Great fun - for me.

At 6 PM, Socorro Springs Brewery, next door, still had piles of hail 8" high.

A nice drive in the country.

This trail ended at an irrigation canal. Water and hail were about 12" deep here.

At many spots, water had pushed as much at 12" boulders onto the highway as it rushed across.
So don't think that a little rain would stop the day's adventure. Went 11 miles north of town to a wash that allegedly harbored fossils. The wash was dry as the previous storm went off to the northeast but another was forming again over the mountains. After watching it stew and brew for while, the storm decided to start moving and hauled ass towards us. Again, quickly escaped out of the 4WD road in the wash only moments before the hail hit. No idea how much rain was deposited or if the wash flashed, but at least we were out of there.

Where else can we go? The west was clear so drove up to the top of a mountain where there had been some significant mining. This was pleasant. JAFRs were abundant so all were happy - that is - until another cloud started to form in the southwest. Time to leave. Got some good photos but have already exceeded the "photo limit" for today.

Where else can we go? The south was clear so headed that direction to another excellent 4WD road that led to some old mines. The road was great, with water still flowing down the trail. Even needed 4WD for 15 seconds. Again, JAFRS were all over the place so all was was well. But....it was sure dark up north - back towards Socorro.


The "road."

Drive the 14 miles north back to town to find yet another heavy rain had pounded Socorro, not as much as the first, but impressive none the less. By this time the sun was out, there was a fantastic view of the brilliant red-orange hills to the east. It was warm, sunny and an unbelievably gorgeous Sunday evening. Again - wow!

How do you top a day like this? You drink beer and eat pizza. While this is my norm on many trips, it has not been a common occurrence on this one - except for tonight :) :) This place will be on the "must go" list perhaps for next spring.

So it's time to upload this crap, have a nightcap and see what tomorrow will bring as we head towards the Valley of the Fires (and no wifi for a while.....)

Monday - Valley of the Fires and Pistachios

Today begins the long and tortuous journey back home. But along the way, there'll still be some stops to help preserve the mellowness before the insanity of work and home commences.

First thing this morning was a trip east of Socorro. There were hundreds of ATV trails here so why not? After a couple hours driving on 4' wide trails (and only using 4WD once, and that was due to my stupidity) headed back into town.

On the way back, found this fine specimen of a daily driver. Now there must be a good reason to have tire chains on the front wheels but that reason eludes me. At any rate, this was a first for me! You see it all out here! Maybe that would help me negotiate some of the mud holes with the FN JP!

Stopped in town at the BLM office to inquire about the "roads" and met up with a BLM guy who was very knowledgeable about the area and spent the next hour going over maps and explaining how the BLM will be turning that area into a 7,000 acre OHV area. It was a pleasure to talk to someone from the BLM that supports multiple use and equal access.

There have been many awesome churches/missions like this one on the trip. Needed to include a photo of one since this is so typical of the west.

Had lunch and then took the RV through a manual car wash to remove a major portion of Arizona. $9.00 in quarters later, it was mostly successful.

Next was the 2 hour drive to Valley of the Fires BLM campsite and the town of Carrizozo.

Stopped to "admire" some of the black lava and then returned to the RV. Next was a 50 mile trip towards Alamogordo to get some locally grown pistachios and then a trip up to La Luz to visit Tom and Jane, some friends we've known for many years from back in Illinois.

Got back to the RV at 9:30 and looked at the millions of stars and the milky way in this dark, quiet, peaceful, campground. Another very good day!

I don't want to go home :(

Tuesday - Alienated in Roswell

Morning has broken....but it can be fixed. What a great morning at Valley of the Fires. Too bad we have to leave. Motored west through the mountains to Capitan, home of Smoky the Bear. Great scenery, nice forest with lots of interesting looking roads. Need to come back here again.

Wound up in Roswell for lunch at the "Cover Up Cafe", complete with real bullet holes in the windows. They should have kept it covered. Nice waitress but crap food. Then of course were the shit shops. Not my cup 'o tea. So here I sit, hammering out more drivel while the local economy is being bolstered.

It looks like Lubbock, TX, may be only 90 miles out of the way. Lubbock, of course being the hometown of Buddy Holly. So after some deliberation and much research, elected to head the 180 miles through eastern New Mexico and some of the western panhandle of Texas to Lubbock and pay homage to Buddy Holly tomorrow.


ET go home!

There are those who might say that those 180 miles would be boring, boring, boring. But, as usual, it often is the journey that's as entertaining as the destination.

After crossing the Pecos River, the land changed dramatically. Gone were the hills and the bluffs along the river that seemed to last for miles and miles. This quickly became cowboy country for long way. Some of the ranches extended for 5 - 10 miles along the highway. The guy who did the steel art, described later, said it takes a square mile for each 15 head of cattle in a typical year!

The land changed from grazing to sand, and even an OHV area. Towns were 50 miles apart. YES! The writing on the side of one bar proclaimed "Last Chance! Last cold beer for 100 miles."

Soon the land changed again and there were cotton fields, hundreds of them, and bales of cotton at the collection points. And of course, there were the ubiquitous oil wells - sometimes as far as the eye could see!

Then in Tatum, a little town seemingly in the middle of nowhere, was this shop that made steel art. Now this is worth stopping for. Why? For example, these aren't mass produced in China and this certainly isn't a tourist trap where you pay 3 times as much as one should for mostly worthless crap. This is some older fellow, with a long Texan drawl, that takes steel plates, hand draws these cool figures and the cuts them out, by hand, with an acetylene touch. No computer. No plasma cutting. All by hand --- and I think he does equally as well as the computerized cutting gizmos they have today. He had thousands of these steel cutouts all over the place. This is yet another reason to travel the Blue Highways.
After that, on through Bronco, on through Plains. On Donner and Blitzen. What neat little towns on the way to Lubbock. Between the three towns in 150 miles (plus or minus!), the oil wells, the ranches, the cotton, the cows, the bluffs, the plain plains, the ever changing scenery - this was a very enjoyable trip. This was topped off by getting the last large pull-through spot in a campground north of town. Next was a trip through Lubbock to a great BBQ cafe and then finally back here to complete this. Tomorrow will be a couple museums and then continuing the long, sad trek home. It was 80 degrees today but a cold front is coming through and there may be frost on the ol' pumpkin tomorrow night. By that time, we should be in Kansas, maybe.
Wednesday - Dodge City (What a Pity!)

Today started with a bang. We were downtown looking for the Holly Center when there was this humongous BOOM and a dust cloud about 3 miles away. The windows in downtown Lubbock rattled. Well, we had to go that way anyhow to the Windmill Museum so let's see what all the commotion was. Turns out, an LP gas facility blew up. There was debris, rocks, bricks, fiberglass and what not 1/4 mile away. Will try to log on to see if there is an online Lubbock newspaper with the details but I'd be amazed if there wasn't a fatality or two. This sure brought the TV news trucks with their upload dishes out of the woodwork.

It's the journey, not the destination, don'tcha know!

After the excitement, we did tour the windmill museum. Fascinating, as they say, but too limited a space here for photos.

The main event today was to have been paying homage to Buddy Holly. That was done well. Lubbock is certainly trying to make the most of his time there, I guess one can't blame them. But sometimes they seem to get bogged down into a little more minutiae than maybe is needed by the average visitor - but then maybe not. You decide. At least they didn't have the coroner's report on display at the museum.

This vacant building once held a record studio where he recorded his first few songs. They never charted and are collector's items today.

Then on to the Holly museum. It was small and hard to find but done up very well. It did have some strange items, tough, like his coloring book, Cub Scout uniform and his glasses. Yeah, it was a worthwhile detour. There was much more they had to see on the printed tour of Holly's Lubbock: his church, his home, his grade school, KDAV radio (yes, KDAV!), various places where he played. You get the idea. One place that we did go and get a photo was a car dealership where he and the Crickets would play music on the roof of the building to attract customers.


This is Holly's Fender Stratocaster electric guitar that was used for the Winter Dance Party tour in 1959 and was placed on the bus to go to Fargo instead of the plane.


Yes, these are indeed his glasses. They were in the county coroner's office in Clear Lake, Iowa, until the 1980s when they were returned to Lubbock.
The "Walk of Fame" has a bronze statue of Holly with perhaps 50 or so plaques honoring West Texas musicians. Some of the names: Waylon Jennings, Mac Davis, Jimmy Dean, Sonny Curtis, Tanya Tucker, Jerry Allison, Roy Orbison, Bob Wills, Buddy Knox, the Gatlin Brothers, Jimmie Gilmore and the Fireballs, the Crickets, just to name a few.

And this wrapped up the mini-tour. Note the last name. This is his family name but when he started recording, someone misspelled his last name and by the time they figured it out, it was too late to change so he used the name Holly.

This is the last of the major Buddy Holly places I've toured. A couple years ago, had the rare opportunity to tour the Norman Petty Studios in Clovis. Have also been to the Surf Ballroom in Clear Lake and also the the crash site in Iowa. It would be great, absolutely great, to get to the Surf Ballroom in 2009 for the 50th anniversary of the Winter Dance Party. It's only 30 miles from my hometown.

And as a footnote, yes, the day the music died I indeed was delivering papers (in the snowstorm.) Wow. 50 years. Wow. Wow.


Yes, I am, thank you!
Got out of Lubbock about 1 PM and headed towards such towns as Dumas, TX, Hooker, OK, and Liberal, KS. Finally settled in at the Wal-Mart campground in Dodge City. Another significant contribution was made to the local economy. Pulling in to Dodge City in the dark, on roads that are torn up for repair, was a pain in the ass!

While the sign post is in the way, you get the idea. Why would anyone name a town Hooker? "And where did you go to school?" "Oh, I graduated from Hooker High!"

What a contrast in size. Here's a windmill farm for generating electricity with a full size pickup on the lower left, but more fascinating is the old time windmill to the right.
Thursday - To Infinity ...... and Beyond

The slight detour to Dodge City last night, to get into a Wal-Mart 1 hour sooner, proved to be fortuitous. On the way back home, the newly chosen road rambled through Hutchinson, KS. There was this thing called a Cosmosphere and it sounded like a nice respite from the driving. Well, this museum, located in a kinda small town in middle of the sorghum fields, the oil fields and the corn, turned out to be a gem!

Before plopping down the seven and a half bucks, I asked the docent behind the desk if his museum was worth the money. He entered into a most worthy, entertaining and lengthy discourse that sold me! Perhaps their brochure says it best, "Uniquely positioned to tell the story of the Space Race, the Cosmosphere houses a U.S. space artifact collection second only to the National Air and Space Museum as well as the largest collection of Russian space artifacts in the Western world."


The museum started out with the German rocket developments in WWII, proceeded through the cold war, and the manned space missions. At least 1/3 of all the artifacts and information was on the Russian efforts. The amount of detail and trivia was amazing as evidenced by the photos to the left. And yes, the photo of the V-1 is an actual V-1.

Many of the photos didn't come out well due to the lighting and these few just don't do justice to the museum. It was awesome!

Three hours were spent in the museum and that wasn't half long enough. This museum is on the "A" list of places to return. Checkout their web site at www.cosmo.org.


Another Russian exhibit: This is a real Sputnik. It was the fully functional backup for the original.


Gloves that were worn by one of the astronauts that walked tn the moon.


And a poor photograph of a real moon rock.

They did have a sense of humor. On the exhibit of the discovery of the Van Allen belts, they had a quote from James Van Allen: "What use are Van Allen belts? I make a living out of them!"

After leaving Hutch, motored on through Kansas and got stuck in rush hour Kansas City. Finally plopped down at the Wal-Mart in Columbia, MO. Tomorrow will be Pittsfield, IL.

Friday, Saturday, Sunday - Pittsfield (IL) and hopefully, but sadly, Home

The damn coach batteries are frickin' fried. Left to their own devices, they drop to < 10.5 volts in about 3 hours. If I run the charger, it pumps 100 amps into them. Hmm. Since the furnace and lights run off 12 volts, this presents a problem. So periodically last night, got up every 3 hours or so, ran the generator for 1/2 hour and then went to bed. Left lovely Columbia, MO, at 7 AM and got into Pittsfield, via way of Mexico and Louisiana, about 9:30. Didn't stop to eat on the way.

Pulled into Lake Pittsfield, a city run campground that's one of the my favorites. It's just a very nice place!


A new variant on "Eat here and get gas." This is, after all, Pike County!

'Twas a beautiful morning at Lake Pittsfield. Got a good camp site and throughout the day the weather was fantastic. The claims to fame for stopping here are (1) a Jeep Club meeting Saturday night and (2) the Pike County Fall Color Drive, a weekend where there are hundreds of vendors hawking their wares and hundreds of garage sales. Oh boy! In all fairness, the folks here really go all out for this event. Too bad the weather is scheduled to turn to crap tonight and rain most of tomorrow. On the other hand, it's a good thing we came the southern route back, given the dire predictions of rain, snow, sleet and hail in the Rockies tonight.

Found a way to fake the charger into not running 100 amps into the batteries. Set the temperature correction parameter on the charger to indicate the batteries are at 140 degrees. This seems to only pump 4 amps into the batteries instead of the 100. This will be a good fix for the next few days. BTW, I'm convinced the batteries were going bad and wouldn't accept a charge and that's the reason for the 100 amp charging current, not a failure in the charger. It's a theory.

No, this isn't a new design cell tower. This is a birdhouse ghetto in a neighboring town. Most folks wear hats here.

After driving around the day and supporting the local economy (again!), came back, took a nap and will now enter town and get a haircut. After being gone this long and not having a haircut before leaving (and sadly not getting a haircut at Pete & Co.), I make Grizzly Adams look good.

Back at 7PM. Donohoo, the barber of Pittsfield, was busy so grabbed a steak at the Red Dome restaurant, got a bottle of local cherry wine, came back and will try to catch up on email.

Saturday dawned sunny but cold. The weather forecast is for a cold rain later today. Too bad, people here have really spent a lot of time and effort to set up stands for food, crafts, and what-not. Got going at 8 and returned to the RV about 2, once the clouds came in. Around 4, the rains came and that pretty much put a kibosh on the festivities. Seems a shame. For example, across from us, under a shelter, is a group of people from the local hospital that are trying to have a party/picnic. They're having a hell of a time trying to get their fire going in the cold rain (although they seem to be having a great time playing football in the rain!) I suspect a lot of this kind of thing was planned for this weekend and has gone down the drain. Will cook a couple burgers and then head into town for the Club meeting tonight. Tomorrow is home and who-knows-what awaits :(

This has been a relatively good trip. The weather could have been better as the top was off the Jeep for only the first week, although for most of the rest of the trip the sun roof was opened while sightseeing. In retrospect, this was about 3 weeks too late for this kind of vacation. Won't do that again. On the plus side, found many new places to explore and have added them to the list. There were a few issues with the RV but nothing to really complain about. The FN JP performed flawlessly and significantly better than expected. My suspicion is that a 4" lift, 35" tires and 4.56 gears will be the order of business for this winter and maybe, just maybe, might even take it to Moab this spring.

End of the line. if you've made it this far in the drivel, you've either got a lot of stamina or are bored (or are reading this at work!)

Thanks for riding along.



Started 08 Oct 2006.
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